wind1717風言風語

有時候，真的會懷疑，自己真實的去過某些國度嗎?
還是只是去過已在自己想像虛構的他方
然後一切所發生的事只是趨近自己的想像罷了！
而有時，更尷尬的是，在地人竟然不斷的要迎合我們的口味
讓自己走樣

有時，會不小心遇到還未受到觀光污染的當地人，會以本初的心與我們一起
但眾人只要稍加不留意，就會迷失在觀光的喧閙中，錯過了一些單純的眼神

希望自己有福氣，再次與真正的不丹或其他的國度相遇 
 

 

非常世俗的想法，若你有錢，有閒，到這裡相當簡單。因為這裡並不複雜，而且人民純善。
但若你僅將這裡視為一個只是曾經旅行過的國家之一，那麼你真的可能一輩子只會來一次。
若有特殊的福德（機緣），到這裡並非難事，而且不需掏大錢，
而福德與資糧得要修幾世呢？

註：塢金剎土蓮師聖地
 

<sup>位於不丹中部Trongsa的Nabji Trail是2006年才開放的健行路線。最初我選的路線是從Paro走到首都Thimpu的Trail。但到出發前2~3個月旅行社才通知我們此路線在冬季不開放（其實我當時看了一下林相與氣候，是旅行社找不到嚮導願意帶冬季健行吧！而且他們的trekking equipment實在不怎麼樣。）和旅行社來來回回討論了好幾次，終於選擇這條路線，雖然海跋不高，但卻落實生態旅遊的精神，而且所得的觀光收入會直接滙入當地社區發展協會。因為旅行社一直說選這條路線他們得多花很多費用（不丹每天的規費是固定的，等於他們少賺）

來到藥師佛的淨土，總是待在旅館裡是一件可惜的事，必竟，在台灣大家已經擁有＂什麼都有的生活＂。如果沒有健行，就失去一次與這片土地細細聯結的機會。每一天我們得以有機會與不同部落的人相處，部落的人也會將我們的行李搬運到下一個村莊，然後再回去。點著篝火，輕啜當地釀的酒，聽著村民們圍在溫熱的火堆旁與我們分享的歌，台灣的伙伴終停止喧閙的心，讓所有在這片淨土之上，對蓮師的禮讚流入心中。</sup>

村民們幫我們送行李到營地後，

等我們全都安全到達了

就一起在營地與大家道別，拍完照後，

昨晚代表送伴手禮的阿公忽然掩面而哭

看著他們牽著馬，沿著原路回早上出發的村子，
眼看著他們的影子越來越小

我也哭了，

這一輩子不知道還有幾次可以跟這樣純樸的人類相遇

雖然有伙伴說那是他們的工作

但我相信

阿公當下激動而不捨的眼淚

不是工作手冊裡的＂服務＂項目

Introduction:

The Nabji Trail is an ideal post-harvest/winter trekking open from October up to the end of March. The trail is set out in Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park , a park with an ecological rich environment. The park, located in central Bhutan , is also home to several cultural rich agricultural villages. The trail is a six-day low-altitude trek (between 693m/23100ft and 1,636m/5453ft) through six different villages located inside the park. Starting point Riotala (1060m/3533ft) and final destination Tongtongphey (1061m/3537ft) are two small villages along the Trongsa-Zhemgang road, situated in the buffer area of the park at the east side of the Mangde Chhu (river).

On this trek, you will possibly see the Golden Langur (Trachypithecus geei), one of the rarest primates, which can only be found in Bhutan and neighbouring Assam . Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park is also home to the endangered Rufous-necked Hornbill (Aceros nepalensis). More so, the trail is a superb place for birding (common mynas, blue-fronted redstarts, long-tailed shrikes and Eurasian sparrows, to name just a few common species, but spotted are also serpent eagle, golden-throated barbet, and the yellow-bellied flowerpecker) and has a wide variety of plants and flowers found in this Himalayan area (from Chir Pine, broad-leaved trees and Bamboo, to Rhododendrons and wild Orchids).

Besides the natural beauty of the area, the area also contains cultural history, witnessed among others by the presence of a commemorative pillar in the temple of Nabji . The pillar symbolises the occasion that peace was negotiated between the two kings (King Nauche from India and King Sindu from Bhutan ) intermediated by Guru Rimpoche in the eight century. Along the six day trail more traces of Guru Rimpoche’s presence during those days can be found.

The last two days of the trek will go through the homeland of the Monpa people. The small traditional villages of the Monpa community are scattered on the slope overlooking Mangde Chhu. The Monpas are thought to be the first settlers in Bhutan , the Mangde Chhu valley representing one of the earliest areas of settlement in Bhutan . The Monpas practice a mix of animistic shamanism and Buddhism. Monpa refers to “the people of darkness�? referring to their isolated position in the past. In general term Mon refers to people without religion that symbolises period before the advent of Buddhism in Bhutan . They were originally hunters and food gatherers and their culture, tradition and practices are intrinsically linked to the forest around them. They are traditionally cane weavers and bamboo crafters, using their skills for house construction, making baskets and other household items.

Community Tourism:

The Nabji Trail supports the park management in their efforts to conserve nature by creating more awareness on natural and environmental issues, through tourism awareness programmes and by introducing socio-economic benefits. Specific measures are put in place to maximise socio-economic benefits and minimize negative impacts from tourism development to support the livelihood of the local community in the area and to create more awareness on natural, environmental, and cultural issues.

The trail itself has been in use since long by the villagers themselves, who use the trail to commute between villages. A waste management system has been put in place where tour groups have to carry their non-degradable waste out of the park. Waste can be disposed of at the end of the trail, at the Park Range Office in Tongtong fey, where an incinerator is build. This incinerator is not only for the benefit of tour groups but also the local community.

The trail has been developed in such a way that community will have the sole responsibility to manage and provide services. The service package includes community camping sites with basic facilities (Nimshong, Korphu, Kubdra and Jangbi) or with bucket shower/hot stone bath facilities (Nabji), local lunches, tea or meal. The rates for these services are standardised to avoid misunderstanding between communities and the tour operators and tour groups. Each village has a Tourism Management Committee (TMC), as appointed by the villagers. The TMC will monitor and control the services, revenue collection and utilization through the Community Development Fund (CDF). The revenue so generated will go directly into CDF bank account.

On rotation basis, individuals from different villages generate income through portering from village to village, assisting as cook, or village guide. Other activities generating income for individuals by developing tourism in JSWNP include cultural performances, sales of crafts, vegetables and other agricultural products. The TMC decides the deposit on certain percentage of the revenue generated from the individual tourism activities such as portering, guiding and cooking into the CDF bank account. The accumulated fund can be used by the communities for their village development activities, children education and expansion and maintenance of the tourism related infrastructure. The fund can be used to support initiatives which involve those who are not directly involved in tourism development (especially children and elderly).

 

Accessibility:

Nabji Trail was officially opened  from October 2006. Best time to visit the area is from October to March. The Pilot Community Tourism Steering Committee has set specific dates to visit the park (only one tourist group can visit at a time). Bookings can be made through a Bhutanese tour operator who will arrange reservation of park permits and prepare the necessary road permits. A maximum number of 11 people per tour group are allowed on the trek (incl. the FTO tour guide if any). The community will offer a service package that includes campsite, porters, village guides and cooks. Others services and products offered are a cultural program, handicraft made out of cane and bamboo, vegetables and firewood. Basically all the campsite have more or less the same facilities such as camping ground, toilets, shower, kitchen and a mini theatre (two campsites) for cultural program. A minimal amount will be charged on top of the services provided, which will go directly into CDF.

The trail’s start and end is located at the road between Trongsa and Zhemgang. Therefore Trongsa is a good ‘base camp’ to start the trek. Not only because of its close distance from start and finish of the trail, its accommodation facilities, and its perfect location between Punakha and Bumthang, but also because of possible visits to Trongsa Dzong and its Ta Dzong (a watch tower which will be converted into museum). Kuenga Rabten, the old winter palace, can be visited along the way to or from the park.

風住在喜瑪拉雅山上 山下的子民知道

風會旅行 祈請經幡上菩薩的加持

隨著風帶到每個角落 曾被加持過的人兒

不管前世或今生 會在某個時間

在喜瑪拉雅山腳下

再度相遇